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Your experience is one data point. These cars are blowing up left and right. Maybe you’re not driving as hard as you think you are, or maybe the tracks you drive at don’t induce oil starvation, or maybe you are on low grip tires. You definitely do not have the authority to apply your personal experience to everyone else. There is convincing data from multiple sources (not anecdotes like your comment) to suggest the car oil starves in certain types of corners. An oil cooler and thicker oil might be a good idea but will not fix that problem. An overfill helps but is far from a perfect solution. This is a design flaw that is not present in other cars in this price range, including the Miata (which has some easily addressable cooling issues) and Elantra N (track ready 100% stock). It does not have a fix unless you’re willing to blow $$$ on barely tested aftermarket parts, potentially add a lot of complexity, and throw away your warranty.

You ca get a set of six piston Wildwood fronts and rotors for about $2100-2200. Four piston upgrades are out there for a bit less. Careful shopping can probably beat that a bit more. Buuuuuut... Being able to roll those upgrades into your loan, and to have them covered under your OEM warranty is a big deal for a lot of buyers and shouldn't be overlooked. I mean probably the smartest ting to do is to buy the tS, sell the wheels and tires and use that money to buy two sets of street/track wheels. :)

@@Grassrootsmotorsports yeah, but warranty will only cover you if there’s a public outcry… that already happened for this car, unlikely it’ll happen again. Plus there’s still the low oil pressure on right turns issue…

With everything off there was no discernible intervention. I also usually try and do something particularly stupid to see if I can trigger it, and it seemed to want to let me get as dumb as I wanted.

I own a 2024 tS and the Eyesight "nannies" are really only Lane Departure Warning and Pre-collision Braking. The Lane Departure can be turned off and stays off, and the Braking can be turned off but will re-enable itself after turning the car off.

Limited and tS on 18s with summer rubber. Premium ships on 17s with all season rubber.

😂😂😢😢

pedal spacers exist for the BRZ to move it closer to the brake pedal. Never had an issue with that personally, always felt the subaru pedals were the easiest to work out of the cars ive had.

Yeah tires and alignment would certainly close the gap to the CTR... until you threw some camber and tires at the Honda :) Still, for a car that, on paper anyway, shouldn't be running as close to that Civic as it is, the tS really seems to be more than the sum of its parts. Definitely a step up from the base model.

I run a 22 BRZ at FIRM a couple times a year. 17x9 with 245 Conti Force, AP BBK, Racecomp Engineering T0 (non-adjustable KWv3s with 6kg/mm springs), 3.25deg front, 2.5deg rear camber. Personal best is a 1:20.1. Probably a second on the table if you went to RE71R. I’m an OK driver but probably another second on the table with a hotshoe driver.

@@thanecaithness8268Yeah they seem to respond well to just a few simple mods like that. It's probably still perfectly comfortable on the road as well.

The Brembo kit is a definite upgrade. Yes you could make these upgrades to a base model BRZ for about the same money as the tS price bump, but the tS gives you the ability to roll those upgrades into your payment if you're financing, and also provides warranty coverage.

Tires are same as premium trim. Michelin pilot sport 4. Nothing special here. Sorry to say there's some misinformation here

@@Grassrootsmotorsports No question there! My point is simply I wonder how much of the lap time comes from those brakes and how much comes from suspension. As someone else noted the tires can be had without the rest since launch, I believe. Personally most interested in the dampers not the brakes as I’m not going for lap times.

@@maximus9401 My first thought too!

Iff you want to get a decent impression of the shock quality on any of our test cars, look at the speed trace right around the 4000ft mark. You'll see a progressive deceleration, a short steady state plateau, then another deceleration. The flatness of that plateau is a good indicator of shock compliance as the car traverses the "esses" at the FIRM. Basically I take ALL the curb there, and a good set of shocks will allow a steady speed with the minor lateral transitions, while a less-controlled chassis will show some deceleration through those bumpy transitions. So, yeah, great shock response on this one.

Can't afford one can you?

@@churchofbrap876 i can, but i decided to buy a reliable Sport car.. miata is always the answer Baby lol

@@churchofbrap876 dont turn left lol keep posing at the starbucks.

Not an issue bud. Just add a bit more oil if u go to the track.

@@churchofbrap876 probably should overfill even if you do any hard turns on autocross or mountain driving. I've seen people blow there's on there.

@@churchofbrap876 thats not what i have seem at the track buddy maybe if ur a poser that just takes it to the starbucks every morning then i can it being ok..

@@LoveLikeaHurricane dido..

@@gigi9467 if this is such a huge problem, where are the Subaru and Toyota recalls for it?

Good choice!

Have you driven one? Not just putting around on the street either. The FK8 changed my opinion of the R model

​@jamaisvu2664 most people don't track their cars. Over 80% dont that drive these types of cars

@@jamaisvu2664 I have total respect for the CTR, I’ve just never been a fan of how I fit in them or the interiors of a lot of Hondas. But the CTR has become the benchmark that a lot of channels are comparing their GTIs to.

The exhaust side of the catch can or oil separator shd be connected to the inlet side of the turbo to provide a constant vacuum. Once that's done properly, it shdn't lead to seals leaking isn't it?

is the MK8 PCV system not prone to the oil burn issue on track?

​@@powerst33ryes, but when you're out of boost, you'll get positive crankcase pressure

@@jameshaulenbeek5931 The turbo inlet is always a vacuum as long as the engine is running

@@powerst33r not always. Depending on the engine and intake setup, you might have positive pressure at idle and low throttle, or until you hit higher rpm. It's not as simple as that. Testing that has been done on the stock mk 7 TIP has shown the shape of the TIP and the location the PCV line connects to allows for a vacuum. If you change the TIP, you lose the vacuum on the PCV. The Mk 8 retrofit creates a venturi at the PCV outlet, allowing you to use an aftermarket TIP without affecting PCV function.

Before?? 💀 nah bruv

Around a track no way.

Take off the stupid catch can, add a oil cooler

Especially endurance 200TWs